Olala, La Carlota!

by Maria Eleanor E. Valeros, #newmedia specialist

Caption: The vintage steam locomotive of 1920 is a picture of Negros’ expanding sugar industry in the early 1900s when the Industrial Revolution provided “modern” equipment to enhance labor and production, while the Suez Canal was opened as a trade route.

LA CARLOTA, NEGROS OCCIDENTAL, PHILIPPINES — A vintage steam locomotive that dates back to 1920 was the primary reason why I had embarked on a trip here along with three girl-friends with whom I share this passion for the awesome outdoors.

The opportunity to travel to this part of the West Philippines came at such a time that climbs to the 2460-meter high active Mount Kanlaon, the highest (and killer) peak in the Visayas, were cancelled as a four-km radius danger zone advisory was released. The four of us were longing to conquer Mount Kanlaon, being passionate trekkers. But we had to respect her “mood swings” that time of the year, so we revised the itinerary.

We, foursome, took a ride aboard a steam locomotive or the “iron dinosaur of Sugarlandia” at the Central Azucarera de La Carlota compound. This happened after we spent a night at the Mahogany Grove of the Guintubdan Nature Camp, a part of the 24,557-hectare Mount Kanlaon Natural Park. It is one of few surviving national parks in the country today.

The Guintubdan Nature Camp is the jump-off point to the twin craters of Kanlaon. At least, we were already at Kanlaon’s torso (so to say) looking at her foot touching the plains of La Carlota, Bago, La Castellana and Bacolod. Not a bad feat indeed for one to be this upclose with the ashes spewn by the volcano, but able to go home safe and sound to tell our story.

La Carlota, 45 minutes south of Bacolod City (capital of Negros Occ), is home to one of 12 sugar centrals in this province. Old steam engines or “iron dinosaurs” are still chugging to and from mills, transporting harvested sugarcane, most especially during the milling season that is from October to April.

Iron dinosaurs are found at the Hawaiian Philippines Company in Silay City, Victorias Milling in Victorias City, Lopez Sugar Central and Sagay Sugar Central in Sagay City; and of course at the Central Azucarera de La Carlota of La Carlota City.

During this visit to the central azucarera, we learned that “sugar” is from the Sanskrit “sarkhara,” meaning “food of the kings.” In ancient times, only kings and noblemen can afford to have sarkhara.

Today, with the advent of modern technology, sugar is practically available to everyone. The sugarcane being extensively cultivated in Negros is said to have come from New Guinea by way of Mindanao during the pre-Spanish era. The history of Negros would not be complete without touching on the story of the sugar industry itself – the monocrop economy that made Negros what it occupied in our history : Sugarlandia or Sugar Bowl of the Philippines.

It was on the mountain barangay of Ara-al, La Carlota that we got the opportunity to visit Abaga Falls and Mag-asawa Falls on a Good Friday. After which, without calculation, just crashed into the Rafael Salas Park and Nature Center as it was situated at the border of Ilijan, Bago City – a few meters away from Ara-al. This, we only realized after a chilly dip at the natural pools of Abaga.

The park is dedicated in memory of Rafael Montinola Salas, the executive director of the United Ntions Fund for Population Activities. He officially held the rank of Undersecretary General, said to be the highest administrative post ever attained by a Filipino in the United Nations. So says a memorabilia.

The day before we stepped into La Carlota, we had a campout at the Mambukal Mountain Resort in Minoyan, Murcia town. The government-run resort is situated some 2,000 feet above sea level, the northern gateway to Kanlaon’s twin craters, accessible within a two-day hike. Mambukal offered a sweeping view of the mountainscapes of Marapara-Mandalagan and Kanlandog.

Mambukal is a nature lover’s paradise, known for its sulfur springs. The very reason why it is named Mambukal is because of the air vents at the floor of a lagoon, sending bubbles up the surface, indicating volcanic activity.

Much is still to be discovered around and near the municipalities and cities that Kanlaon touches. Exploring these interesting places on the map of exciting destinations would mean an enriching experience of the allure and grandeur of nature, a better understanding of the Negrense history, and an appreciation of our lives’ interconnectivity with people, culture, and of course – mountains.###

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