Olala, La Carlota!

by Maria Eleanor E. Valeros, #newmedia specialist

Caption: The vintage steam locomotive of 1920 is a picture of Negros’ expanding sugar industry in the early 1900s when the Industrial Revolution provided “modern” equipment to enhance labor and production, while the Suez Canal was opened as a trade route.

LA CARLOTA, NEGROS OCCIDENTAL, PHILIPPINES — A vintage steam locomotive that dates back to 1920 was the primary reason why I had embarked on a trip here along with three girl-friends with whom I share this passion for the awesome outdoors.

The opportunity to travel to this part of the West Philippines came at such a time that climbs to the 2460-meter high active Mount Kanlaon, the highest (and killer) peak in the Visayas, were cancelled as a four-km radius danger zone advisory was released. The four of us were longing to conquer Mount Kanlaon, being passionate trekkers. But we had to respect her “mood swings” that time of the year, so we revised the itinerary.

We, foursome, took a ride aboard a steam locomotive or the “iron dinosaur of Sugarlandia” at the Central Azucarera de La Carlota compound. This happened after we spent a night at the Mahogany Grove of the Guintubdan Nature Camp, a part of the 24,557-hectare Mount Kanlaon Natural Park. It is one of few surviving national parks in the country today.

The Guintubdan Nature Camp is the jump-off point to the twin craters of Kanlaon. At least, we were already at Kanlaon’s torso (so to say) looking at her foot touching the plains of La Carlota, Bago, La Castellana and Bacolod. Not a bad feat indeed for one to be this upclose with the ashes spewn by the volcano, but able to go home safe and sound to tell our story.

La Carlota, 45 minutes south of Bacolod City (capital of Negros Occ), is home to one of 12 sugar centrals in this province. Old steam engines or “iron dinosaurs” are still chugging to and from mills, transporting harvested sugarcane, most especially during the milling season that is from October to April.

Iron dinosaurs are found at the Hawaiian Philippines Company in Silay City, Victorias Milling in Victorias City, Lopez Sugar Central and Sagay Sugar Central in Sagay City; and of course at the Central Azucarera de La Carlota of La Carlota City.

During this visit to the central azucarera, we learned that “sugar” is from the Sanskrit “sarkhara,” meaning “food of the kings.” In ancient times, only kings and noblemen can afford to have sarkhara.

Today, with the advent of modern technology, sugar is practically available to everyone. The sugarcane being extensively cultivated in Negros is said to have come from New Guinea by way of Mindanao during the pre-Spanish era. The history of Negros would not be complete without touching on the story of the sugar industry itself – the monocrop economy that made Negros what it occupied in our history : Sugarlandia or Sugar Bowl of the Philippines.

It was on the mountain barangay of Ara-al, La Carlota that we got the opportunity to visit Abaga Falls and Mag-asawa Falls on a Good Friday. After which, without calculation, just crashed into the Rafael Salas Park and Nature Center as it was situated at the border of Ilijan, Bago City – a few meters away from Ara-al. This, we only realized after a chilly dip at the natural pools of Abaga.

The park is dedicated in memory of Rafael Montinola Salas, the executive director of the United Ntions Fund for Population Activities. He officially held the rank of Undersecretary General, said to be the highest administrative post ever attained by a Filipino in the United Nations. So says a memorabilia.

The day before we stepped into La Carlota, we had a campout at the Mambukal Mountain Resort in Minoyan, Murcia town. The government-run resort is situated some 2,000 feet above sea level, the northern gateway to Kanlaon’s twin craters, accessible within a two-day hike. Mambukal offered a sweeping view of the mountainscapes of Marapara-Mandalagan and Kanlandog.

Mambukal is a nature lover’s paradise, known for its sulfur springs. The very reason why it is named Mambukal is because of the air vents at the floor of a lagoon, sending bubbles up the surface, indicating volcanic activity.

Much is still to be discovered around and near the municipalities and cities that Kanlaon touches. Exploring these interesting places on the map of exciting destinations would mean an enriching experience of the allure and grandeur of nature, a better understanding of the Negrense history, and an appreciation of our lives’ interconnectivity with people, culture, and of course – mountains.###

Lost in time

by Maria Eleanor E. Valeros, #newmedia specialist

#microadventurism

LA CARLOTA, NEGROS OCCIDENTAL, PHILIPPINES — She refused entry to an all-female climb we organized in April 2004.

On her black-brownish foot, at the La Carlota side, lies Barangay Ara-al where we had a campout amid a gloomy atmosphere of her ash spews and restiveness. We had to contend with her foul temper. We had to submit to her mood swings. After all, what’s the label “unpredictable” for?

Being the most active volcano in the Visayas, Kanlaon erupted 25 times since 1886. Said eruptions were described to be “typically phreatic explosions of small-to-moderate size that produce minor ashfalls.” This means the eruptions could come without warning, making it the most dangerous place to be on this side of the earth!

We contented ourselves with what pleasure and bliss Abaga Falls could offer before breaking camp. And, miserably, we bid her farewell as we endured pangs of pain conveyed by that aborted “girl power” climb.

Seven years later, I still hoped against hope she would allow us in — even for a moment (I was with climbing buddy Cris Comendador this time). The trek may have ingrained a journey to the grave, but I do admit I was astir at her restlessness.

It was a delight to finally get a permit from the Office of the Protected Area Superintendent headed by biologist Angelo “Eioi” Bibar to enter into Mount Kanlaon Natural Park via the Guintubdan Trail in La Carlota. It was a relief to have found the most able “sherpa” available from May 20-22 in the person of Paul Anthony Oliveros of Murcia town. It was enthralling to be up there on the awesome but creepy summit crater – 8,000 feet above sea level.

“The most important thing is not being concerned about having the money, time or skills to climb, but the desire. Don’t think too hard. Just do it.” This wisdom I imbibed from Japanese national Junko Tabei, the first woman on Everest.

Those were always my concerns – fees, getting fit for the challenges, how to survive the elements. And always, nature works well, in deep sympathies to my frailties and imperfections. The downpour came before we could even take a single step into the established DENR trail which takes about an hour to the emergency campsite near Buslogan Falls where we could fetch water for the “cookout.”

When the rain stopped and the fogs cleared, we started the journey. Compared to my Mount Talinis climb in September 2010 (Oriental Negros), the MKNP canopy is not as dense. In fact, sunrays could penetrate parts of the earth. I could see clearly how those creepy black and green leeches found their way into my boots, my socks. Then, I dropped count of them as I got accustomed to their pretty annoying presence. Or was it the other way around?

The ascent was gradual with 45 degrees slope. With a difficulty of 7/9 and being the shortest route, the climb allowed the body to adjust well and immediate to the changes in altitude. With unlimited supply of anions, the lungs display moments of vigor and vitality. Heartbeats become audible, in synchrony to the crunching of trodden twigs and sloshes of mud and forest litter. But boy! The thermostat dropped 11 degC, making fingers numb, sending knees a-jerking and tummy a-throbbing.

On Day 2, we continued the ascent at 7 am so that by 1 pm we were 1.10 kilometers away from the summit crater. Intimidating Mount Kanlaon was draped in thick mist but we saw her verdant shoulder called “Saddle in the Sky” replete with grasses. Her neck somehow displayed telltale signs of horror as hurled boulders and loose rocks were scattered in ecstatic jumble.

Paul said it would take another 30 minutes to scale the saddle. But we could not assault in such a state. “We have to wait for the area to clear,” he reminded us of one mountaineer who fell off a ravine when negotiating downhill on a foggy afternoon. He also pointed to us where “fallen comrade” Neil Perez breathed his last. And he mentioned of those foreign mountaineers who either perished or got hurt when Kanlaon sent her fury in episodes of phreatic explosions in 1996 and in 2008 while they were standing at the summit. Bless their souls!

Since it would be risky to push through summiting with the winds getting stronger and the veil of fog getting thicker, we decided to pitch tent at the campsite, a good distance from the Pagatpat Ridge. The location was nice because it was hidden from view and we had all the trees in the world as windbreakers. We busied ourselves tying up a makeshift rain shelter, preparing meals.

Will she be so gracious as to let me – and Cris – in this time?

At 4:30 pm of May 21, the very day predicted to be end of the world, we were allowed to get a glimpse of the portal of one of the scariest places in the Visayas. The mist gave way, liked pulled curtain on a commemorative wall. Paul showed us the rock – the Hagkanan – which serves as gateway to the mountain. And on it, we, the first-timers, planted reverential kisses. *Hagkanan (something to kiss on)

Kanlaon is gorgeous but she has this atmosphere of eeriness. She is truly very beautiful but she scared me to death when one side of her with deposited rocks crumbled. The landslide sounded more like a roar bellowing from her bowels, a guttural cry. And in less than five minutes, we backtracked at the sight of tawny smoke billowing from the dregs of the earth.

She gave us around four minutes to wander (and wonder) at her sheer presence. Then, haze embraced her again. We had to hurry down before losing good sight of the winding path covered with extremely beautiful blooms sans proper names.

We were laughing at how we reacted to our sightings of death! “Mahadlok sad diay ta mamatay sa? Abi nako, we’re ready to go if doomsday’s indeed today!” We went nuts poking fun at our experience.

Had we given up too soon, we might have never discovered that sublime impression she created on us. Had we dropped the plan for good, we might have missed that grand and imposing entrance to the Unknown.

We were right to have stopped only when the journey’s done. To have paid attention at how Kanlaon would want to rewrite our expedition. Indeed, no climber – even the seasoned ones – can underestimate her. At certain points, she’s a hottie. At times, she’s wrapped by her own desolation. She allowed some to kiss her, tickle her, dance on her, drink from her pools of waters collected on her breasts at a raincloud’s initial burst. She hid herself to some. She even claimed lives!

But on a May 21st, when we were supposed to watch the earth melt, crumble and disintegrate based on a cult prophesy, we were snatched by some kind of rapture! We had her for less than five minutes, and we were extremely awed.

For at her disposition, we witnessed how fleeting life is like a drop of dew on a blade of grass.###