Olala, La Carlota!

by Maria Eleanor E. Valeros, #newmedia specialist

Caption: The vintage steam locomotive of 1920 is a picture of Negros’ expanding sugar industry in the early 1900s when the Industrial Revolution provided “modern” equipment to enhance labor and production, while the Suez Canal was opened as a trade route.

LA CARLOTA, NEGROS OCCIDENTAL, PHILIPPINES — A vintage steam locomotive that dates back to 1920 was the primary reason why I had embarked on a trip here along with three girl-friends with whom I share this passion for the awesome outdoors.

The opportunity to travel to this part of the West Philippines came at such a time that climbs to the 2460-meter high active Mount Kanlaon, the highest (and killer) peak in the Visayas, were cancelled as a four-km radius danger zone advisory was released. The four of us were longing to conquer Mount Kanlaon, being passionate trekkers. But we had to respect her “mood swings” that time of the year, so we revised the itinerary.

We, foursome, took a ride aboard a steam locomotive or the “iron dinosaur of Sugarlandia” at the Central Azucarera de La Carlota compound. This happened after we spent a night at the Mahogany Grove of the Guintubdan Nature Camp, a part of the 24,557-hectare Mount Kanlaon Natural Park. It is one of few surviving national parks in the country today.

The Guintubdan Nature Camp is the jump-off point to the twin craters of Kanlaon. At least, we were already at Kanlaon’s torso (so to say) looking at her foot touching the plains of La Carlota, Bago, La Castellana and Bacolod. Not a bad feat indeed for one to be this upclose with the ashes spewn by the volcano, but able to go home safe and sound to tell our story.

La Carlota, 45 minutes south of Bacolod City (capital of Negros Occ), is home to one of 12 sugar centrals in this province. Old steam engines or “iron dinosaurs” are still chugging to and from mills, transporting harvested sugarcane, most especially during the milling season that is from October to April.

Iron dinosaurs are found at the Hawaiian Philippines Company in Silay City, Victorias Milling in Victorias City, Lopez Sugar Central and Sagay Sugar Central in Sagay City; and of course at the Central Azucarera de La Carlota of La Carlota City.

During this visit to the central azucarera, we learned that “sugar” is from the Sanskrit “sarkhara,” meaning “food of the kings.” In ancient times, only kings and noblemen can afford to have sarkhara.

Today, with the advent of modern technology, sugar is practically available to everyone. The sugarcane being extensively cultivated in Negros is said to have come from New Guinea by way of Mindanao during the pre-Spanish era. The history of Negros would not be complete without touching on the story of the sugar industry itself – the monocrop economy that made Negros what it occupied in our history : Sugarlandia or Sugar Bowl of the Philippines.

It was on the mountain barangay of Ara-al, La Carlota that we got the opportunity to visit Abaga Falls and Mag-asawa Falls on a Good Friday. After which, without calculation, just crashed into the Rafael Salas Park and Nature Center as it was situated at the border of Ilijan, Bago City – a few meters away from Ara-al. This, we only realized after a chilly dip at the natural pools of Abaga.

The park is dedicated in memory of Rafael Montinola Salas, the executive director of the United Ntions Fund for Population Activities. He officially held the rank of Undersecretary General, said to be the highest administrative post ever attained by a Filipino in the United Nations. So says a memorabilia.

The day before we stepped into La Carlota, we had a campout at the Mambukal Mountain Resort in Minoyan, Murcia town. The government-run resort is situated some 2,000 feet above sea level, the northern gateway to Kanlaon’s twin craters, accessible within a two-day hike. Mambukal offered a sweeping view of the mountainscapes of Marapara-Mandalagan and Kanlandog.

Mambukal is a nature lover’s paradise, known for its sulfur springs. The very reason why it is named Mambukal is because of the air vents at the floor of a lagoon, sending bubbles up the surface, indicating volcanic activity.

Much is still to be discovered around and near the municipalities and cities that Kanlaon touches. Exploring these interesting places on the map of exciting destinations would mean an enriching experience of the allure and grandeur of nature, a better understanding of the Negrense history, and an appreciation of our lives’ interconnectivity with people, culture, and of course – mountains.###

Major, major climb to Mount Talinis

by Maria Eleanor E. Valeros, #newmedia specialist

caption: The 1926 explosion of Talinis left behind “sculptures” of trees in Kaipuhan, where a number of bubbling sulfur vents confirms ongoing volcanic activity.

VALENCIA, ORIENTAL NEGROS, PHILIPPINES — Sheer will catapulted me on Mount Talinis (5,905 feet above sea level) on an open climb organized by the Cuernos de Negros Mountaineers Club, Inc. based in Silliman University, Dumaguete City.

Like other “connoisseurs of geologic forms,” I was among 54 participants from Tacloban, Bacolod, Cebu, Masbate and Dumaguete for the trek cum cleanup drive.

In a previous blog (“Casaroro Roars!”) I shared about my intense desire to finally climb Talinis after four years of waiting. So glad to have waited for the right time to be with the right people. At first, I had apprehensions I might not be fit anymore for some strenuous activity after going through the knife via Caesarian Section. Because of the level of difficulty, all climbers are warned of the nature of the climb and are required to be in “good physical condition.”

Read: Mt. Talinis is a Level 3 mountain, signifying a major climb with a certain level of difficulty in terms of steepness of slopes, dense vegetation cover, and requirement of more than a day’s climb. And that though Bidyao (also spelled Bediao) Trail or Route 2 is considered a “tourist trail” which means relatively easier, average tourists may have difficulty climbing this trail. This may have been considered easier by the local guides because it takes less time to climb over Apolong and Lunga Trails.

I was grouped to take Route 1 or via Apolong Trail. This is of medium difficulty. Lunga is reserved for the more experienced climbers.

I noticed trails passing by gullies and waterways which should be avoided being risky in events of flashfloods and erosions. I also passed by four quicksand areas before reaching the campsite. Whew!

With Everest summiteers Romy Garduce and Peter Hillary (son of Sir Edmund Hillary) for inspiration, I “moved at my own pace.” And when in a situation, I had to “stick to my gun.” Their words of wisdom, sort of, assisted me in navigating the contoured trails for a total of eight hours, or two hours delayed from the estimated time of arrival at Lake Nailig – designated base camp. Nevertheless, my arrival there despite the dragging half steps is classic example of triumph of the human spirit!

It’s a good thing I followed the advice of carrying lightweight pack to minimize difficulty in climbing and descending the mountain. I got contented with trail food – biscuits, marshmallows, and a load of dark chocolate with mint to boost serotonin (feel-good brain chemical).

I’m also grateful to the god of forests for conspiring with me at some points. Two trekkers from Bacolod City, Roy Domingo Raymundo and Brian Joanes, experienced thigh cramps the way I did, so we moved in the same pace.

Sometimes I would walk in solitude for around 40 minutes, contemplating if it’s indeed mortal sin to set aside the buddy system. But as a freelancer, I have to literally walk the distance by myself and to rely on instinct should common sense fail.

It’s just amazing to note that everything about the forest assures me I am pursuing “a life.” Yes, climbing is a life. In fact, climbing provides that deafening silence which gives that voice within a chance to speak. It also gives me the blessed chance to recognize the Awesome I know of, not the one shaped by religions, dogmas, doctrines, cults and occults, nor the one molded by pretentious philosophies and easy syllogisms.###

Return to Lake Balinsasayaw

by Maria Eleanor E. Valeros, #newmedia specialist

:for#microadventurism

Photo by Aldo Nelbert A. Banaynal

SIBULAN, ORIENTAL NEGROS, PHILIPPINES — The itch to return to Sibulan is connected to this lust I have never ever learned to tame for Lake Balinsasayaw.

Serene. Reserved. Cool. Placid. These are all overused terms to describe her. These, which all the more underrate her, because such also mean measuring her in terms perceptible.

Truth be told: Lake Balinsasayaw will forever be a mystery.

***

A furious Mount Guintabon blew its top, believed thousands of years ago, creating a caldera which served as catch basin for rainwater. The caldera was said to be discovered by a certain Don Miguel Patero in 1885. Now, with a surface area of 76 hectares and a depth of 90 meters, it serves as natural playground for those wanting to go boating and kayaking or do hiking/trekking on trails at the bank of the lake.

Twin Lakes Natural Park is said to be the home of 180 species of dipterocarp and non-dipterocarp trees, 113 species of birds including serpent eagles and swifts (balinsasayaw) from which one of the lakes was named after, 27 mammals, and 49 amphibians and reptiles. Age-old trees, giant ferns, and other exotic plants and orchids are among her natural inhabitants. Wild rare vines also freely cling to the barks of trees.

The Almaciga tree, said to be the tallest tree in the Philippines, which grows up to 60 meters tall, can still be found here.

Sad to note (but I do understand) swimming which entails risk and pollution has already been prohibited. So I failed to make my “return flip” from out of the boat to the waters somewhere near the center of the lake.

However, my motorcycle crashes did a repeat. On my way up there last time onboard a Honda Wave motorcycle, my driver and I crashed two times because of the potholes and the rocks scattered all over the road. Last Friday, on our way home, my companion (on his “first time” out there) maneuvered a bend and got pretty jittery at the sight of an oncoming, speeding “habal-habal” that his reflexes sent him manipulating both hand-foot brakes. We sealed the adventure with scratch marks and aching bones.

I definitely won’t recommend this destination via motorcycle, sans the expertise for the terrain, the faint-hearted, or those who design their ITs like their study skeds or household chores. However, because the road to the Twin Lakes is for those who have deep admiration on how nature changes the landscape with all of her fury and glory, I think that this would motivate you to go for the kill (lol)!

The view from up there – and a dash of soul searching – more than compensates for the bumpy, risky ride.

Further, it was learned that the Twin Lakes Natural Park is part of the 133,000-hectare geothermal reserve managed by the Philippine National Oil Company. The 8,016.50 hectares belonging to the natural park straddles the three municipalities of Sibulan, Valencia and San Jose in the Province of Oriental Negros (yes, this is how the words are politically arranged!)

By the way, the lakes are contained in adjacent calderas 1,000 meters – and not feet – above sea level and are separated by a ridge more than 20 meters in width. The lakes are completely surrounded by thick forests and lush vegetation of about 3,462 hectares spread over the Guintabon, Kabalin-an, ang Guinsayawan mountain ranges which serve as protection dikes to the lakes.

Mount Guintabon is 1,262 meters above sea level while Mount Guinsayawan is 1,788 MASL. While Lake Balinsasayaw has a surface area of 76 hectares, Lake Danao has only 30.

————————————————————————————————————————————–Don’t forget to drop by Jo’s Chicken Inato By The Sea in Sibulan for their yummilicious “tinolang manok sa buko” with pepper leaves. I find the place worth marking, most especially as they have cute outrigger-inspired meal tables under the canopy of century-old rain trees. Check Gina’s Kabayo-an in Dumaguete City for a variety of dishes like lechon kawali, crispy pata and horse meat. We stayed at La Moriah Pension Inn which offers barkada package.

The pack spent nearly P4,000 for the two-day trip to Sibulan and Valencia towns and Dumaguete City, including overnight accommodation and a visit to the Cataal War Museum in Valencia managed by war memorabilia collector Felix Constantino “Tantin” Cataal. (First published in The FREEMAN Lifestyle Section, 2012)